the DMZed (it's better canadianized, non?)

alright, so i'm overdue in the re-cap of events-a-happening-lately, so this report's a week+ late, but bear with me. last weekend, we were still busy showing mark's sister, ali, the best spots in and around seoul, and despite her having left to return to canada last wednesday, i've somehow been too preoccupied to update ...

so here we go ...

last saturday, we went on a tour of the dmz, which was simultaneously awesome and incredibly intimidating. although we'd been to an north korean observatory before, the tour of the joint security area has stricter rules for visitors, as it's the only part of the dmz where sk and nk meet directly. most tourists to the spot are foreigners, as we're lucky enough to only have to pay for the experience, and not have to go through the lengthy and difficult process south korean visitors would have to. that being said, access is completely restricted for any citizens of afghanistan, cuba, iran, iraq, lybia, pakistan, sudan, syria, and of course, any north koreans. how interesting.

so, we'd been briefed on more or less what to expect, including strict guidelines on dress code (of which none of the following were permitted):

3. Dress code
-Dress code violators will not be permitted tour to the JSA.
1) A hole jeans or faded jeans (Basic jeans are o.k)
2) Top and sleeveless
3) Mini skirts, sports wear, short pants and slippers
4) Military style look
5) Any form fitting clothing of any type including tight knit tops or pants.
6) leather clothes

taken right from the panmunjom tour's website ...

well, after we'd cleared up that none of us would be wearing our a-hole jeans or leather chaps, we were set to go. we met our tour group and boarded the bus in downtown seoul, and set off for the 1+ drive to the border. our tour guide, mr. kim, informed us that there would be no pointing or gesturing at the guards once in the military area. we were only allowed to take pictures in and of designated areas. once we got to our destination at camp bonifas, our passports were checked, along with our shoes (no flip flops or sandals permitted), and we had to leave all possessions on the bus. and yes, if you click on that link, you'll also see that camp bonifas is home to the most dangerous golf course in the world, which we also got to see! bonus! the only thing that was allowed to be in our hands when departing the bus were our cameras (all cash in pockets, hats on heads) - this was to make sure we'd be more or less hands-free if we needed to make a run for it (in the back-to-the-bus way, not in an over-the-border-defecting way). we were warned that if we pointed or gestured in any shape or form, it was out of our tour guide's hands (pun intended?) and we'd be shot. mr. kim was a pretty light hearted and funny guy, but he made it clear that although we all laughed, he wasn't joking - and he would not be held accountable if we got gunned down by the military. we had to sign visitor's declarations before entering, and one section specifically stated:

d. visitors will not point, make gestures, or expressions which could be used by the north korean side as propaganda material against the united nations command

oh, and also:

1. the visit to the joint security area at panmunjom will entail entry into a hostile area and possibility of injury or death as a direct result of enemy action.

eeeeeeeep.

mr. kim also told us some pretty horrific stories about groups in the past where tourists had been reckless with the rules and "accidents" had happened. that being said, he also kept referring to something called the "ex mother instance," and it wasn't until the with-pictures slideshow was presented that i realized my terrible interpretation of his accent was really the axe murder incident. whoops. don't worry, that wasn't tourist-related, just north koreans soldiers attacking the american miltary.

the soldiers all stand at attention, just feet from the border. they use the building as a shield, and are thus positioned at the corners as such. i know it's honorable and all, but this must be a pretty fucking boring job...
this is building t-3, and we were permitted entry to the building next door, t-2

north korean soldier creeping us through his binoculars

inside building t-2: this table is in the centre of the room, and the microphones on the desk indicate the border between north and south. in this room, we were allowed to wander freely and thus enter north korea, but we were warned not to get too close to the armed unmoving guards (of which there were two). oh, and yes, also, no pointing or gesturing.


being terrified of the wax-like soldier (ali even mentioned they'd put mme tussauds to shame...) - this was shortly after mr. kim warned us not to get too close to them as they're quite hostile (nevermind masters in martial arts, and armed). please note smile of fear on my face.


mark's brave and right up close to him. they wear sunglasses to prevent any distracting eye contact, or "eye communication."

the concrete slab that indicates the line between north and south; north on the right, south on the left.

needless to say, we made it through the tour in one piece. i even ran into an old friend from university in our group. small world, what! and i know we've recommended it before, but let me harass you again to check out vice's guide to north korea because if you can't make it there yourself (or even if you can), that documentary is awesome.

*picture at top: the direct meeting point of the south korean and north korean borders, picture taken from freedom house pagoda on the south side of the border. in the distance, main north korean building, panmungak.